Paris Delices City Guide

The Butte aux Cailles

Located in the heart of Paris’s 13th arrondisement, Butte aux Cailles is a neighborhood that rejects modernization and influential
trends. Picturesque and undeniably quaint, its inhabitants never seem to be pressed for time and the waiters who work in its neighborhood cafés will easily strike up a conversation of pleasantries and then shout with excited vigor “Au revoir” as you walk out the door. Due to the absence of renowned museums, theaters, famous restaurants and designer clothing boutiques the quarter is rarely mentioned in mainstream travel guides; however this little corner of tranquility definitely deserves an afternoon visit.

History
Many instantly assume that the Butte aux Cailles was named after the small fowl (the quail), but in actuality, the Butte was named after the family Cailles who purchased this piece of land in 1543. As the family secured additional parcels, the name changed with each acquisition – Butte Cailles, Butte de Cailles, Butte aux Cailles.

On November 21st, 1783 the Montgolfier brothers persuaded Pilâtre de Rozier and the Marquis d’Arlandes to take part in the first manned balloon flight. The two men traveled 7 miles (12.1 km) in less than half an hour at the height of 3,000 feet (915 m) landing the Montgolfier balloon on the Butte aux Cailles. Benjamin Franklin, who was Ambassador to France, was lost for words as he eagerly observed the event from the ground.

At the end of the 19th century, the Butte aux Cailles, an unfortunate victim of heavy industrialization, lost its last watermill and its river, the Bièvre. Toxic waste, which was dumped into the river by the tanners, textile manufactures, and paper mills, had radically transformed the area into a noxious wasteland. The city, forced to find a solution to this travesty, chose to demolish the factories and bury the river underground.

During the 20th century most of the 13th arrondisement underwent a radical modernization as massive apartment complexes replaced older structures. The district began to attract Asian immigrants making the 13th arrondisement home to the largest “Chinatown” in Paris. Fortunately a few neighborhoods have managed to maintain an antiquated charm where one can still wander down cobblestone streets lined with townhouses.

The Itinerary
When strolling through the Butte aux Cailles one will immediately find the architecture of this Parisian neighborhood bewitching. Unique houses built from a wide range of materials will cause you to stop and wonder what kinds of stories are hidden behind their walls. Small gardens blossoming with the subtle fragrance of mimosa, honeysuckle and lilac scent the city’s sully air leading one to believe they have just arrived in French Provence. As not much happens in the Butte aux Cailles, I recommend that you do as the locals do, slacken your pace and cherish the tranquility.

The purchase of a detailed Parisian map will help you to discover the area’s smaller streets and passages.

You will begin the walking itinerary at the metro stop Masion Blanche (line 7).

1, 2 bis, rue du Docteur Lucas Championnière
At the corner of rue Docteur-Lerary and rue Docteur Lucas Championniere you will happen upon a splendid Tudor house. The house, built as part of a new subdivision, reflects the owner’s aspiration to recreate the atmosphere of a rural village.

Rue du Docteur Leray and rue Dieulafoy
The streets, lined with colorful attached townhouses with pointed roofs, were designed by architect Henry Trésal in 1921. Built to accommodate the city’s workers, the townhouses featured such modern conveniences as a private bathroom, bedrooms, courtyard, garden and garage.

Square des Peupliers
A charming green oasis lined with picturesque townhouses.
Discretion is advised as this area is regarded as one of Paris’s most precious oases.

Place Paul Verlaine – Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles
Listed as an historic monument, the Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles is filled with warm water sourced from an artesian well. The building’s art nouveau façade and interior was designed by Louis Bonnier.

Rue de la Butte aux Cailles
Rue de la Butte aux Cailles, lined with neighborhood cafés, restaurants, bars and bistros, is the perfect place to stop for a café crème or an aperitif.
Take the time to discover some of the small streets which branch off the rue de la Butte aux Cailles – passage Boiton, rue Buot, and rue des 5 Diamants.

Rue de la Butte aux Cailles and rue de l’Esperance
A cast iron Wallace fountain appears along one of the neighborhoods more frequented streets. This fountain, which is one of the many constructed in Paris, was named after the Englishman Richard Wallace, who financed their construction. The beautifully designed fountains are recognized worldwide as one of the symbols of Paris.

Rue Barrault, rue Daviel and Villa Daviel
On rue Barrault pause in front of #22, look up and observe the intricately designed roof tops of “la petite Russie.” These 20 homes built for the city’s taxi drivers possess a garage. Unfortunately access is denied to those who do not reside there.
On rue Daviel you will come to a row of Tudor townhouses (#10) known as “le petit Alsace.” Built in 1912, the townhouses served as social housing for low income families. On Villa Daviel, brick townhouses with blossoming gardens are reminiscent of the townhouses built in England.

Rue Vergniaud – The Cité Floral - rue des Orchidées, rue des Glycines, rue des Liserons and square des Mimosas
This small residential quarter with its charming homes and immaculate gardens is your last stop on the itinerary. Wander through the tiny ruelles which have been named after fragrant flowers – rue des Orchidées, rue des Glycines, rue des Liserons and square des Mimosas – you will instantly find yourself hypnotized by the tranquility and beauty of your surroundings!

Address Guide

Restaurants
L’Avant-Goût
26, rue Bobillot 75013 Paris
Tel : +33 (0) 1 53 80 24 00
Open Tuesday to Friday 11am to 2:30pm, 7:30pm to 10:45pm

Le Café du Commerce
39, rue des Cinq Diamants 75013 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 53 62 91 04
Open daily from 12pm to 3pm, 7pm to 2am
Weekends 12pm to 2am

Bars
La Folie en tête
33, rue de la Butte aux Cailles 75013 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 45 80 65 99

Wine Bars
Tandem
10, rue de la Buttes aux Cailles 75013 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 45 80 38 69

Pastries
Laurent Duchêne
2, rue Wurtz 75013 Paris
Tel : +33 (0) 1 45 65 00 77
www.laurent-duchene.com
World renowned pastry chef makes irresistible mille-feuilles and baguettes.

Gourmet Boutique
Les Abeilles
21, rue de la Butte aux Cailles 75013 Paris
This small boutique proposes a large selection of savoury honeys.

Monuments and Sites
Manufacture des Gobelins
42, avenue des Gobelins
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 08 52 00
Guided tours open Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 2pm to 2:45pm
Well known Parisian tapestry workshop.

Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles
5, place Paul Verlaine 75013 PARIS
Métro : Place d’Italie
Tel : 33 (0) 1 45 89 60 05
Art nouveau swimming pool filled with water which is sourced from an artesian well.